Tag Archive | Nepal

The Fort before the Temple

There it was. Finally. Looming against the skies of soft grey mists and sudden sunshine. With eyes wide shut, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Awesomeness? Living history? After having seen so many intricate temples and ancient carvings throughout Asia, awesomeness came in small doses. Living history seemed to be all around me in Nepal, […]

Sadus, Gurus and Tantrums

Summer is a time when sadus from across the southern border trek north, searching  for herbs and flowers which grow in the Nepalese hills. Our journey through the western hills was at the beginning and our guide, K., who mistook himself to be a guru, was still in high spirits. Not only was he going […]

Candy-Coded in Nepal

There is something about windows and doors that fascinates me. I wonder about the inhabitants, what they see when they open their shutters, what they do as they step out into the open. Do they and I see the same? Does anyone really see the same reality? Realities everywhere blend. There are mosaics, crops, wide-lense […]

Whose Human Rights?

How far is my home? Where are my hills? Who will take me home? I cannot breathe here. I cannot live here any longer. There is no rain, no soft breeze. My body is bruised, my face cut, my honour taken. This is not what I was told. I close my eyes and think of […]

Borders, Boundaries and Patience

This was the southern highway. Flat, streaming through rice paddies, over-populated, warm and humid, different tribes and ethnic groups. A fertile land which invited migrant farmers to join. Hence, here too, there is the characteristic mix of faces, religions and tribes for which Nepal is well known for. I wouldn’t find Magars nor many Gurungs […]

The Mysterious Magars

He looked around the dark shop before taking another sip of hot, bitter tea. “They’re stupid”, he said calmly, as if it was of no great importance. With a deep sigh, he continued, “they have been living like that since I can remember. Since my parents could remember! They never leave their hills and they […]

Faces behind the Mists

Mists often engulfed us along the roads. If another vehicle (a truck or bus) happened to come towards us on the other side of the road, I closed my eyes. Or kept them wide open in disbelief of these drivers careful steering. At times we saw the remainders of what had been vehicles, before they […]