Hills

Tea, Sex and Temples

Just as when one spends time with another and their character is slowly revealed, locations, places and landscapes slowly unravel  themselves.  As mists come and go, the hills unfold before me, each day another revelation, another loose thread that I try knotting to a string of stories. Not that the revelations necessarily imply clarity. This […]

The Fort before the Temple

There it was. Finally. Looming against the skies of soft grey mists and sudden sunshine. With eyes wide shut, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Awesomeness? Living history? After having seen so many intricate temples and ancient carvings throughout Asia, awesomeness came in small doses. Living history seemed to be all around me in Nepal, […]

The Girl in Red who Wondered

I’ve heard the elders of the tribe talk by the fire at night. When they whisper as they drink their strong tea, that is when I most want to listen to their words and nods of agreement. I know now. I know how other tribes look down on us and call us names. But…how would […]

What the Mists Reveal

For days we travelled through misty hills, winding rivers below us. Whenever skies cleared, surprising features were revealed. A village on the other side of the river,  their roofs in purple, nesting between a hanging bridge and steps engraved into the landscape. Not a sign of a motor vehicle, let alone any industry other than […]

Candy-Coded in Nepal

There is something about windows and doors that fascinates me. I wonder about the inhabitants, what they see when they open their shutters, what they do as they step out into the open. Do they and I see the same? Does anyone really see the same reality? Realities everywhere blend. There are mosaics, crops, wide-lense […]

Whose Human Rights?

How far is my home? Where are my hills? Who will take me home? I cannot breathe here. I cannot live here any longer. There is no rain, no soft breeze. My body is bruised, my face cut, my honour taken. This is not what I was told. I close my eyes and think of […]

Borders, Boundaries and Patience

This was the southern highway. Flat, streaming through rice paddies, over-populated, warm and humid, different tribes and ethnic groups. A fertile land which invited migrant farmers to join. Hence, here too, there is the characteristic mix of faces, religions and tribes for which Nepal is well known for. I wouldn’t find Magars nor many Gurungs […]