The Fort before the Temple

There it was. Finally. Looming against the skies of soft grey mists and sudden sunshine. With eyes wide shut, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Awesomeness? Living history? After having seen so many intricate temples and ancient carvings throughout Asia, awesomeness came in small doses. Living history seemed to be all around me in Nepal, […]

Sadus, Gurus and Tantrums

Summer is a time when sadus from across the southern border trek north, searching  for herbs and flowers which grow in the Nepalese hills. Our journey through the western hills was at the beginning and our guide, K., who mistook himself to be a guru, was still in high spirits. Not only was he going […]

The Lost Guide

There are different kinds of landslides in life, and our guide was soon to meet his. Before leaving Katmandu, we made arrangements to  have a driver pick us up in Pokhara and  take us west. Easier said than done, as so few Napalese ventured in that direction. Success finally came in the shape of a […]

Yes, We Have Wi-Fi

Another morning, another road. This time we were bound for Pokhara; a two day stop to catch up with write ups and organizing data. I looked forward to connecting online again, replying to emails and dipping into my regular online habits. Too immersed in the country-side around me, little did I realize then that habits […]

Beyond the Bend

There are mornings when the mist lifts and another rhythm  sets in. Life is noisy, busy, almost frantic. In Katmandu I was surprised by the constant crying of crows. When I asked a Nepali why crows were so welcomed and tolerated in the city, his reply was the crying of crows made people happy: it […]