Assumptions

Sadus, Gurus and Tantrums

Summer is a time when sadus from across the southern border trek north, searching  for herbs and flowers which grow in the Nepalese hills. Our journey through the western hills was at the beginning and our guide, K., who mistook himself to be a guru, was still in high spirits. Not only was he going […]

The Girl in Red who Wondered

I’ve heard the elders of the tribe talk by the fire at night. When they whisper as they drink their strong tea, that is when I most want to listen to their words and nods of agreement. I know now. I know how other tribes look down on us and call us names. But…how would […]

Borders, Boundaries and Patience

This was the southern highway. Flat, streaming through rice paddies, over-populated, warm and humid, different tribes and ethnic groups. A fertile land which invited migrant farmers to join. Hence, here too, there is the characteristic mix of faces, religions and tribes for which Nepal is well known for. I wouldn’t find Magars nor many Gurungs […]

The Lost Guide

There are different kinds of landslides in life, and our guide was soon to meet his. Before leaving Katmandu, we made arrangements to  have a driver pick us up in Pokhara and  take us west. Easier said than done, as so few Napalese ventured in that direction. Success finally came in the shape of a […]

Faces behind the Mists

Mists often engulfed us along the roads. If another vehicle (a truck or bus) happened to come towards us on the other side of the road, I closed my eyes. Or kept them wide open in disbelief of these drivers careful steering. At times we saw the remainders of what had been vehicles, before they […]